masterpiece-style menus is even spilling over to Western eateries here.]]> inclined to go big and elaborate.]]> embraced big menus wholeheartedly.]]> comparison with the West make it easier to have more cooks in the kitchen.]]> commerce.]]> appreciated the visual guide.]]> trend toward in-season and locally grown food has helped shrink menus at many restaurants.]]> elaborate.]]> wholeheartedly.]]> desire for a wide selection.]]> abstract when it comes to their names.]]> heftiness or artistic design.]]> decadent, fatty fowl.]]> complicated question rooted in cooking, culture and commerce.]]> inspire a pang of guilt about indulging in some decadent, fatty fowl.]]>